London Fashion Week got off to a thoughtful start on Thursday, as Daniel W. Fletcher’s show kicked off with a minute’s silence in remembrance of the Queen. “I thought it was important to celebrate that moment as we were opening the event,” said Fletcher. For the London independent label, cancellation was not an option. “We looked at what we could do to make him respectful and then move on. As it is ultimately a very important corporate event for us, we cannot afford to cancel it. So much work and money went into it. “
Instead the soundtrack was changed from the ’80s power ballads he had planned to something darker, and the show opened with a black morning dress made from British wool with a black armband, a traditional sign. of mourning.
The show was a celebration of London, the city that Fletcher has called home for ten years. “From the punks of Kings Road to the pearly Kings and Queens of Soho and even the bankers of the city … it’s all those sartorial influences that have made the city what it is today.”
The genderless collection (nowadays Fletcher’s customers are 50-50 men and women) included double-breasted suits with strong shoulders, military shirts and Prince of Wales check jackets and coats. Corsetry, no longer just for her, has found a new audience worn with tailor’s or schoolboy shorts. Shin-length kilts with satin bands had a business-meets-Balmoral vibe, while faux fur stoles were almost regal. The show ended with leather pants, leather blazers and slender dresses embellished with studs, a celebration of London’s vibrant nightlife.
Fletcher also has riffs on some of his signatures from the last decade. He made a fresh take on the pajama shirts he launched his brand in, corsets first appeared on his spring / summer 2019 show, and the jockey shirt he first designed as a contestant on the hit show. of Netflix Forward in Fashion (an impressive second place came).
Later in the evening Harris Reed held his first walking show in Moorgate (read our review here), with music from Queen frontman Adam Lambert. London Fashion Week continues today with fashion shows from Fashion East and emerging labels Knwls and Chopova Lowena. Royal Warrant holder Burberry postponed his show later this month, while Raf Simons delayed his London debut in February. While all parties and dinners have been canceled, the weekend schedule remains packed, with shows by Molly Goddard, Halpern, David Koma, and Christopher Kane arriving over the weekend. All shows scheduled for Monday have been moved to Tuesday, in light of the Queen’s funeral.