Earlier this week, I started noticing the biennial influx of models around the lobby of a boutique hotel I live next door. The appearance of these striking looking, slender and agile figures is the first real proof that London Fashion Week is upon us. It is five days in which the city can boast of being the most beautiful in the world, with the best surgeries and bags. Like Frieze Week, without the icy world of froideur art.
For a second, it looked like LFW wasn’t going to happen. The day after the queen’s death, British icon Burberry and visiting Belgian fashion dignitary Raf Simons canceled their London shows, sparking a flurry of social talk about what Her Majesty actually wanted the industry to do. of fashion did in case of his death.
As if we didn’t already have enough evidence. At the age of 91, she unleashed an Instagram volcano by attending Richard Quinn’s AI / 2018 show, nodding approvingly from the front row to dresses made by an extremely talented young designer just two years from Central St Martins. His appearance had real-world consequences at the unveiling of the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design. Quinn was the first recipient of him.
No matter how many times you reiterate how important fashion is to British industry and creativity – not to mention how innate it is to London’s proud sense of self – it will still be rejected by some. Unlike the City, the cascade effect of the fashion industry can be seen and shared, making Liz Truss’s surprising decision to raise the bankers bonus ceiling the day before LFW ran out in more than one aspect.
What will happen on the London catwalks in the coming days will soon be imitated by the high street. A factory of ideas for a few becomes design practice for many. When Prada caused retail shocks with its best-selling chunky sash several seasons ago, Claire’s Accessories had their take on it, for crazies like Truss and his old friend Nadine Dorries to unwrap. Everyone is a winner.
Fashion is both elite and street. It’s Harrods and the thrift store. On LFW we will see old punks and new ravers present new important ideas that will spread through the culture. Fashion is an interdisciplinary and visionary industry. It is romance and elegance, vulgarity and ridicule. LFW is Fabulous Christmas. No city captures it like London during the five-day circus.
When Raf Simons said he was performing in London for the first time, there was a buzz of excitement. We will miss his presence, taking some weight off an occasion that struggles to make itself felt in the news cycle.
But LFW is about small craft industries as well as big kids. It’s Fashion East that introduces us to children taking radical forms from nightlife to shopping, Harris Reed, pictured, as he makes his run for stardom. So, for SS / 2023, let’s shout louder and cheer louder for our young design heroes. That’s what he would have wanted.
Towards the end of Darren Star’s Sex and The City for gays, Uncoupled, I had a horrible realization. This is the story of a posh real estate agent in his 50s from New York in a long-term relationship who does endless brunch and says “boy” every other sentence. His pristine life of him falls apart when his handsome partner wakes up to the horrible superficiality of their life, realizes how terrible they are, and leaves him by surprise for his 50th birthday. Give our “hero” the quest for Grindr, learning a new gay vocabulary and the start of the journey to discover the single life. As a 51-year-old gay LTR, he would always be a hard watch. It’s like walking into a twisted and hideous hall of gay mirrors where you think the characters are versions of all the most terrible gays you’ve ever met, until you realize that, yes, there’s even a sliver of you there. inside. Only richer. A little piece of me dies with each passing episode. I’m obsessed, of course.