The most varied show during London Fashion Week is Fashion East – WWD

The most varied show during London Fashion Week is Fashion East – WWD

Lulu Kennedy, the founder of the Fashion East talent incubator, has given many young fashion designers a home for their collections and ideas. Her roster includes Charlotte Knowles, Nensi Dojaka, Roksanda Ilincic and others, all of whom are now showing on the official London Fashion Week calendar.

So it’s no surprise that the three new designers he’s representing this season – Standing Ground, Jawara Alleyne and Karoline Vitto – have decided to focus on the home-away-from-home idea.

Michael Stewart, the man behind Standing Ground, maintained his stance by presenting an independent presentation in front of the shared runways, which has become a formula for Fashion East designers. His models stood like statuary columns in the middle of an empty concrete room with draped robes.

“I am inspired by very ancient landscapes and artifacts, particularly from Ireland, where I come from, are scattered throughout the landscape,” said Stewart.

Jamaican designer Alleyne wrote a story about his collection about a yacht crashing into a pirate ship to comment on the current collapse of cultures taking place.

“I feel it’s right for London and the state we are in globally right now, where everything is in conflict, from Brexit, to COVID to the dying queen,” the designer said backstage.

The light and airy chiffon pieces she showed were a hymn to the clothes many people wear in her home country.

“The way we wear clothes in the Caribbean is very accommodating and we have a lot of upcycling, reuse and resourcefulness in the way we live,” Alleyne said, adding that she has collected fabrics from friends, haberdashery and vintage stores.

Brazilian designer Vitto made London her home when she moved over five years ago to study at Central Saint Martins. Her work was always personal before it was profitable. She founded her own label in 2020 and has since pushed towards making more sensual dresses for plus size women.

“Brazilians are known for showing skin and thinking about beach bodies which was always a problem for me when I was little,” Vitto said candidly, sharing that she is a size 14 or 16 as she gravitates between the two.

His mission was to understand how the clothes on his body felt before he could offer it to his friends and family.

“It started with this wearability experience that turned into an image exercise,” he said.

Vitto works mainly with viscose and silk jersey for reasons of movement: he wants his clients to move freely but still embrace the shape of their body.

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