Tory Burch embraces ballet flats and fluid shapes in the new collection

Tory Burch embraces ballet flats and fluid shapes in the new collection

Fashion Tory Burch (ASSOCIATED PRESS)

Fashion Tory Burch (ASSOCIATED PRESS)

With a spectacular sunset over the Hudson River as a backdrop, models wearing dusty colors spilled onto a concrete runway, as Tory Burch’s vision for spring and summer 2023 came to life during New York Fashion Week .

Pier 76’s outdoor space was unusually large for a fashion show, with two rows of seats lined up on either side of the catwalk and a giant Alexander Calder-inspired cell phone dangling in the center, catching the light. Burch said the venue celebrates the beauty of New York.

“To have a space like this with the sunset and have something vast for the collection, I really wanted it to be focused, but to have the space subtly enhance it,” Burch told The Associated Press in an interview after the show. .

Model and actress Emily Ratajkowski was one of the first to walk the runway in a sheer brown top and a jersey band wrapped tightly around the top of a bright orange silk chiffon skirt that blew the wind from the water.

A constant theme throughout the collection was transparency: tops in cotton and viscose with lace bras that stick out and suits covered in organza and silk that soften the underlying colors. A t-shirt and long skirt were completely covered like a bubble in what Burch calls a “technical taffeta overlay”.

“I wanted it to be more architectural and richer than a simple minimalist piece. I wanted women… to feel free, so I was really thinking about the concept of the shape and shape of their bodies, where they can move and be empowered as they feel today, ”Burch said.

The overall color palette was that of the earth of brown, gray, olive, mustard, and cream, but Burch often added a contrasting color such as a bright white or yellow bag, a shiny silver slingback plate, or a pea green mule.

There were many spring coats in the collection. One silk taffeta trench coat floated easily in the river breeze, creating a lighter, freer look, and another, in stretchy brown satin, took the classic bow to a glamorous notch.

A shiny gold mid-length trench coat crafted from laminated leather was a stunning look and would surely brighten up a rainy day. A calf-length silk shantung skirt with mirror embroidery glowed in the evening light.

The Burch brand, known for shoes and bags, showed this season structured and boxy bags with double handles or short straps. The shoes were mostly very flat ballet flats, another nod to comfort but with unique shapes that Burch says look “super interesting”.

“I really thought about the architecture behind those apartments. There was a mule that had a built-in toe cap, but it’s the most comfortable shape and it’s incredibly flattering too.

Front row celebrities included actors Sydney Sweeney, Jenna Coleman and Lana Condor, who called the collection “beautiful” and said they loved the show. “The apartments are great. I’ve seen a really, really interesting one where it’s like the arch isn’t there. It was just like the sole and then the heel and no arch. “

“Saturday Night Live” cast member Chloe Fineman said she is a huge Burch fan and is thrilled with the new collection. “I’ve often said fashion before death,” joked Fineman. She was looking at the clothes but maybe she was also taking notes. “This is my great love,” Fineman said. “My dream is to make a capsule collection with my sister.”

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