It is notoriously the catwalk with the most creativity.
Fashion East, the London-based talent incubator for young designers founded by Lulu Kennedy in 2000, once again hosted three independent labels for SS23, each of which got their fill.
For Standing Ground’s debut, guests – which included supermodel Jourdan Dunn and presenter Miquita Oliver – were greeted by a series of frozen models, draped in solid-colored column dresses with a twist.
The label, founded by Michael Stewart this year, is based on subtle silhouettes. Intricate jersey folding made for body-hugging meandering rolls. “I want to offer something other than what we usually see in evening wear,” he told us later.
“It’s a jersey studio, and I wanted to treat it in different ways,” he said of the pieces that take inspiration from ancient landscapes and artifacts. “There are different reasons all over the place. Embellishment, there are beads. Many tailoring techniques. ” Overall, it was an understated but tempting start.
Upstairs, and the sun was beating through the glass roof of the Mills Fabrica building in King Cross when Karoline Vitto’s first model came out, tight-fitting dress. “It was very exciting to see everyone together,” she said of her London Fashion Week debut.
“I like to say that we accentuate the curves and celebrate the folds,” she continued, and her successful streak of cut-out dresses wrapped in silver threads were a testament to that. “The dresses are all about embracing sensuality, but keeping it natural,” she said, of dresses that hit a note but did it with confidence.
The loudest applause came for Jawara Alleyne. The show was her third and final Fashion East moment of hers and she delivered her signature style with her style: blending her Caribbean heritage with artistic drapery and a do-it-yourself flair.
Shredded T-shirts made for flowing, fringed dresses, while boys wore sleeveless jackets trimmed with safety pins and recycled denim with block panels.
“It’s all about the drapery work,” says Alleyne, approved by Rihanna (he dressed her like a joint in Dazed magazine, which went viral last year). “We also have a lot of chiffon this time, for a sense of restlessness in the collection too.”
It was a strong and encouraging step for the young designer who is now approaching the industry on his own. “I’m excited about the future and the potential now,” he said. “For me Fashion East means unveiling the storytelling and the storytelling. I think I’ve been able to prove it, and now I can’t wait to continue doing it. “